To the Northwest
of lies the fascinating country of the legendry Sherpas. In this land of mountains,
Pumori stands aloof and proud as if aware of its intense effect on the valley
below. From the smaller summit belonging to Kalapattar to the sparking slopes
of Pumori there appears to be a path that leads to the very sky. Pumori, this
incredible pyramid of snow and rocks, is indeed the pride of the Solo Khumbu.
Pumori is generally considered to be technically challenging and requires climbers
to be experienced as well as in faultless physical condition. For one such climber
this mountain could become the most rewarding challenger in the Himalaya. Our
trek kicks off at Lukla. For the actual climb we will use the classical route
which was first opened by a German -Swiss team. We climb the enormous south-east
slope till the junction with the north-east ridge. This route requires the least
amount of technically: but is exposed to objective dangers: an avalanche prone
section and a section exposed to seracfall
Mount
Pumori Ascend - More information The Mount Pumori Base camp can
be reached from Kathmandu - Lukla flight; and then trekking via Namche Bazaar,
Thangboche - Pheriche and Lobuche. Mount Pumori is 7145m. High and ascent starts
at 5,300m; which is beside a beautiful small lake from here you can get a beautiful
sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapthar at 5545m. Camp
1: After a 3 hrs walk you will reach camp 1 or advance base camp 5700m. After
that you will have to walk the distance of 500m with the Elevation of 40 to 65
degrees slopes. Mount Pumori has many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and
expose to wind narrow ridges, some ice walls, and one tunnel climb. Some times
you may need fixed ropes also.
Camp 2: It starts at 6200m. It is located
on a narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches. The next 400m, Is an ice
climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m, Is the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger
avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m. Now
camp 3: It is too windy. At the height of 6850m, from where you can see Tibetan
plateau; and you need rope here because of many crevasses and ice walls way to
summit. After that there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and other
is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori
Summit. After this walk, the Summit is easy to reach on it's vertex Pumori 7145m.
Normal route: This is the easier route to climb this peak and most of the
expedition coteries climbed this peak so by applying this route. As you know Pumori
is not easy as like the other mountains, there are difficult technical parts in
this route as well. We suggest you that, you should take climbing Sherpa; and
who will guide you nicely to reach you on the top of Pumori. You need to
have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just
above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first
camp at the altitude of 5,650m, around the phase of Mount Pumori . You
should set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m.
The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should set camp
3 at the altitude of 6,480m, around the corner after the ridge. You can
ascend summit from the camp 3 to the top of Pumori. Most of the climbers use this
route every year for the expedition to Mt. Pumori to limb. South - West
ridge: Some very few climbers tried this route, but it is very difficult route.
This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over
the ridge nearly by 75 Degree. As this route has lot of technical difficulties;
so we suggest you to use the normal route for the Mt. Pumori and your group will
comfortably reach on its Top. For the more information please check Himalayan
Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997.
Pumori
7,145m. Expedition Date:
Itinerary: Day
01: Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel Day 02: Kathmandu- Prepare
Expedition Day 03: Briefing expedition in Ministry of tourism Day 04:
Flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding lodge Day 05: Phakding to Namche lodge
Day 06: Namche rest for acclimatization lodge Day 07: Namche - Thyanboche
lodge Day 08: Thyangboche - Pheriche lodge Day 09: Pheriche - Lobuche
lodge Day 10: Lobuche - Pumori Base Camp - Camping Day
11-29 Climbing Period for Pumori 7145m. [ Route Map ] Day 30: Pumori
BC - Pangboche -Lodge Day 31: Pangboche - Namche -Lodge Day 32: Namche
- Lukla - Lodge Day 33: Fly Lukla - Kathmandu & transfer hotel Day
34: Kathmandu Day 35: final departures Equipments
( Climbing/Trekking) Cost: 01 Person USD 11000.00 02 Persons,
Per Person USD 6000.00 03-04 Persons, Per Person USD 4200.00 05-07 Persons,
Per Person USD 3000.00 08-12 Persons, Per Person USD 2750.00 Climbing
Sherpa guide, Per Sherpa guide USD 1800.00 Cost includes: 5
Nights accomodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast (3 star leve) Permit
fee of Pumori 7145m.Expedition Food for Trekking and Expedition period for
Lhotse Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper Porters or Yak porter
Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla Kathmandu -Lukla - Kathmandu flights
with Cargo 50 KG Per member Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison
officer, expedition crew Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew. 1 tent
for 1 person for Expedition north face brand Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent,
Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition Local
transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport) Emergency Oxygen -Mask
and regulator Satellite phone (Pay calls) Fare Well dinner
Cost
does not include: PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking.
Personal & medical Insurance of expedition. Climbing food, Gas &
stove above Base camp. Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu. Emergency Rescue
evacuation by helicopter incase needed. Walki Takie permit & Satellite
phone permit. Oxygen & Mask -regulator. Personal expenses. Bar
Bills & beverage. Garbage Deposit USD 3000.00 (Sharing of the total person)
and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back
their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu.
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